[ver] 4 [sty] _default.sty [files] [charset] 82 ANSI (Windows, IBM CP 1252) [revisions] 0 [prn] HP DeskJet 540 Printer [port] LPT1: [lang] 1 [fldnames] Field1 Field2 Field3 Field4 Field5 Field6 Field7 Field8 [desc] 829108947 1 829103418 92 2 0 0 0 0 1 [fopts] 0 1 0 0 [lnopts] 2 Body Text 1 [docopts] 5 0 [GramStyle] [ParaNum] 1 [tag] Body Text 2 [fnt] Times New Roman 200 0 49152 [algn] 257 1 0 360 0 [spc] 17 0 1 0 0 1 100 [brk] 4 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 1 1 10 10 1 [spec] 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 [nfmt] 280 1 2 . , $ Body Text 0 0 [tag] Number List 6 [fnt] Times New Roman 200 0 49152 [algn] 1 1 360 360 360 [spc] 33 273 1 0 0 1 100 [brk] 4 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 1 1 10 10 1 [spec] 0 0 <*:>. 360 1 1 0 16 0 0 [nfmt] 272 1 2 . , $ Number List 0 0 [tag] Subhead 7 [fnt] Times New Roman 240 0 49152 [algn] 1 1 0 0 0 [spc] 33 273 1 72 72 1 100 [brk] 4 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 1 1 10 10 1 [spec] 0 2 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 [nfmt] 272 1 2 . , $ Subhead 0 0 [tag] Outline3 12 [fnt] Times New Roman 200 0 49152 [algn] 1 1 0 0 0 [spc] 17 244 1 0 0 1 100 [brk] 36 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 2 2 20 20 1 [spec] 0 3 28948 1 1 0 0 0 0 [nfmt] 272 1 2 . , $ Outline3 0 0 [tag] Outline4 0 [fnt] Arial 200 0 16384 [algn] 1 1 0 0 0 [spc] 17 288 1 0 0 1 100 [brk] 4 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 2 2 20 20 1 [spec] 0 4 28948 1 1 0 0 0 0 [nfmt] 272 1 2 . , $ Outline4 0 0 [tag] (a) list 0 [fnt] Times New Roman 200 0 49152 [algn] 257 1 360 360 360 [spc] 33 273 1 0 0 1 100 [brk] 4 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 1 1 10 10 1 [spec] 0 0 <*>>. 360 1 1 0 16 0 0 [nfmt] 272 1 2 . , $ (a) list 0 0 [tag] (i) list 0 [fnt] Times New Roman 200 0 49152 [algn] 257 1 720 360 360 [spc] 33 273 1 0 0 1 100 [brk] 4 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 1 1 10 10 1 [spec] 0 0 <*<>. 360 1 1 0 16 0 0 [nfmt] 272 1 2 . , $ (i) list 0 0 [tag] No# List 0 [fnt] Times New Roman 200 0 49152 [algn] 1 1 720 360 360 [spc] 33 273 1 0 0 1 100 [brk] 4 [line] 8 0 1 0 1 1 1 10 10 1 [spec] 0 0 360 1 1 0 16 0 0 [nfmt] 272 1 2 . , $ No# List 0 0 [lay] Standard 769 [rght] 12240 15840 1 936 1440 1 1440 936 0 1 0 1 1 2 2 936 7800 5 1 720 1 1440 1 2880 1 4320 1 5760 8040 14904 0 [hrght] [lyfrm] 1 11200 0 0 15840 1440 0 1 3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 [frmlay] 1440 15840 1 1440 72 1 792 1440 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1440 14400 1 3 9360 [txt] > [frght] [lyfrm] 1 13248 0 10800 15840 12240 0 1 3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 [frmlay] 12240 15840 1 1440 720 1 10872 1440 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1440 14400 2 2 4680 3 9360 [txt] > [elay] [l1] 0 [pg] 2 37 166 84 0 0 0 0 65535 65535 Standard 65535 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 65535 0 0 65535 0 0 0 0 0 52 74 13 1025 0 0 0 65535 65535 Standard 65535 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 65535 0 0 65535 0 0 0 0 0 [edoc] @Subhead@<:s><:R1,1,1,144,><:#284,6864>BODICE @Outline3@<:s><:R1,1,1,144,><:#245,6864>STYLE<+!> <-!>(1A) <[>1545-1590's] <+C><:s><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6864><+">The body, <-">tight-fitting and with a short point to the waist, was fastened down the left side, probably by hooks. <+C><:s><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6864><+">The neck <-">was low or high. <:s><:R><:#240,6864><+!><-!> <+@><:s><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6864><+">Low Neck <-"><[>1545-1580's] was square and slightly arched o the bosom. <+@><:R1,1,1,288,><:#240,6864><+">The d<\i>colletage<-"><+"> <-">might be covered by @Number List@<+@><:R1,1,1,288,><:#240,6864>Jewellery only. @Number List@<+@><:R1,1,1,288,><:#1200,6864>The gathered or embroidered high-necked chemise, with standing collar and frill left open at the throat. After 1560 was usually replaced by the ruff, which might be worn with a high or low necked chemise, the latter again exposing the bosom more or less ac cording to the size of ruff worn (see Neckwear). @Number List@<+@><:R1,1,1,288,><:#1200,6864><+"><-">A Partlet with standing collar, also generally left open revealing the chemise, or sometimes closed. 'For a claspe for Katheryne Petre's partlett 2d.' 1556. E.R.O. D/DP. A9C. The partlet material was often very decorative, and sometimes studded with pearls. It usually matched the sleeves and underskirt or forepart (see skirts), but not the bodice. <:s><:R><:#240,6864> @Outline3@<+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#240,6864>(1B) High Neck <[>1545-1595] <+C><:I0,288,144,0><:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><:#480,6864>This bodice had a standing collar left open at the throat, or a small Medici collar. Both revealed the frilled chemise collar, which was also worn open. <+C><:s><:I0,288,144,0><:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><:#240,6864>From 1560 the frill might be closed, or replaced by a separate ruff <+C><:s><:I0,288,144,0><:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><:#480,6864>After 1570 a closed cartwheel ruff was popular. This bodice was buttoned down the front, or invisibly fastened probably by hooks and eyes. <:s><:R><:#240,6864> @Outline4@<+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#235,6864><+">Sleeves @(a) list@<+C><:R1,0,><:#1440,6864><+"><-"><+">Funnel-shaped <-"><[>1525-1560], with a close fit above, expanding abruptly to a wide opening at the elbow and here finished with a broad turn-back cuff ending at the elbow bend in front, but very pendulous at the back. These cuffs were frequen tly furred. The undersleeves very full, with lower slashings and a closed wrist with frill from chemise sleeves (As described in Section 1.) @(a) list@<+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#720,6864><+">Close-fitting to the wrist <-"><[>1560-1630], usually slightly padded, slashed and puffed and finished with a hand-ruff, or rarely with a turned-back cuff. It was varied in any of the following ways. @(i) list@<+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#240,6864><+">With a small round distended shoulder sleeve, <-">also slashed and puffed. @(i) list@<+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#240,6864><+">With Wings<-"> @No# List@<+@><:s><:R1,2,1,432,1,1008,><:#240,6864>as slashed rolls, double or single @No# List@<+@><:s><:R1,2,1,432,1,1008,><:#240,6864>as large plain rolls @No# List@<+@><:s><:R1,2,1,432,1,1008,><:#240,6864>as splayed welts surrounding the armhole. @(i) list@<+@><:R1,2,1,144,1,576,><:#720,6864><+">With Hanging<-"><+"> Sleeves <-">(and wings in addition), which, after 1560's, were often sham. They usually matched the dress, while the bodice sleeve matched the fore-part. @(a) list@<+@><:s><:R1,2,1,144,1,576,><:#480,6864><+">A gathered sleeve, <-">made close-fitting by being drawn in by series of bands all up the arm. @(a) list@<+@><:R1,2,1,144,1,576,><:#960,6864><+">A full puffed-out shoulder sleeve, <-">either round or beret-shaped, with a deep cuff ending above the elbow, below which the sleeve was tight-fitting to the wrist, and of a different material from the upper portion (probably detachable). @(a) list@<+@><:s><:R1,2,1,144,1,576,><:#480,6864><+">A 'bishop' sleeve, <-">full from shoulder to wrist, with a tight cuff, and hand-ruff <+C><:s><:I0,288,288,0><:R1,1,1,288,><:#240,6864>Wings always present. <+C><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6864><+">The Skirt <-">of the Spanish farthingale type. Occasionally skirts were worn without farthingales, and then hung in folds over under-petticoats <+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#1200,6864><+">A Girdle <-">was usual, though not essential. It was narrow, and consisted of a silken cord, a band of ribbon or a chain of goldsmith's work, lined with material. It followed the waistline, curving down to the point in front, whence one end hung verti cally to a short distance from the hem of the skirt, and frequently terminated with an attached pomander (see Accessories). <+C><:R1,0,><:#720,6864><+">A Demiceint, <-">or half girdle, had the front half ornamental, generally of gold or silver, and the back half plain, usually of silk, as worn in the first half of the century. <+B><:s><:R1,0,><:#240,6864> @Outline3@<:s><:R1,0,><:#245,6864>STYLE (2)<+!> <-!><[>1580-1630] <+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#480,6864><+">The Bodice <-">was close-fitting and long-fronted, the depth of the point varying to a certain extent with the grandeur of the dress. <+">The Neck <-">was low. <+C><:R1,2,1,288,1,4032,><:#1200,6864><+">Low Neck with stomacher front. <-">The bodice, fitting round the neck behind, had a V-shaped opening in front shoulders to the point at the waist. The edges were sometimes embroidered or guarded, or bordered with narrow revers slightly widening upward s and continued round the neck as a flat turned-down collar. This gap was filled in by a Stomacher. <+C><:R1,2,1,288,1,432,><+">The Stomacher <-">was a long inverted triangular-shaped fill-in for the bodice, and was so placed that its straight upper border produced a low square d<\i>colletage in front. The stomacher was stiffened with pasteboard or canvas, and usually busked. It was made of rich material, often matching the sleeves but different from the bodice, and in a contrasting colour. It was elaborately embroidered, or might be studded with jewels and sometimes covered with transparent material to enhance the effect. <+C><:s><:R1,2,1,288,1,432,><:#240,6864>Stomacher and bodice were united by concealed ties or pins. <+C><:R1,2,1,288,1,432,><+">Occasionally <-">the d<\i>colletage was eliminated by the wearing of a high-necked chemise surmounted by its own frill or a ruff, and sometimes the chemise, fully gathered in front, fulfilled the function of the stomacher which was omitted. <+C><:s><:R1,1,1,432,><:#480,6864><+">The Low Neck <-">was finished with any of the following variations in neck wear (see Neck Wear): @(i) list@<+@><:s><:R1,2,1,576,1,1296,><:#240,6864>A Cartwheel Ruff @(i) list@<+@><:s><:R1,2,1,576,1,1296,><:#240,6864>A Fan-shaped Ruff @(i) list@<+@><:R1,2,1,576,1,1296,><:#240,6864>A Rebato. <+C><:s><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6864>The last two were generally reserved for unmarried women. Girdle optional. A small sash tied in front was common. <+C><:s><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6864> @Outline4@<+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#235,6864><+">Sleeves @(a) list@<+C><:R1,0,><:#240,6864><+"><-"><+">Bombasted 'bishop' sleeves <-">with wings and hand ruffs <[>1575-1585]. @(a) list@<+C><:s><:R1,0,><:#480,6864><+">Trunk Sleeves, <-">full, or very full, above, and tapering to a fitting wrist, were sometimes described as demi-cannon, sleeves <[>1575-1620]. <+C><:R1,1,1,432,><:#960,6864>'What's this? A sleeve? 'tis like a demi-cannon.' <+">1596-1597<-">. Shakespeare. <+">The Taming of the Shrew. <-">This sleeve was rigidly distended with buckram, reed, wire or whale-bone set in a lining of fustian or holland. Such sleeves were consequently often called 'farthingale sleeves'. <:R1,0,><:#960,6864><+!><-!>'Such lace as shall be requisite for ... and furdinall (farthingale) sleeves.' 1592. From a Shrewsbury tradesman's invoice, to Sir W. Morris. Trunk sleeves were pinked or slashed in designs, or trimmed with lace or embroidery. Some were puckered in a shallow honeycomb pattern, very frequently seen on effigies. <+C><:s><:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><:#480,6864>Trunk sleeves were worn with either wings, or rolls, or with immense flowing hanging sleeves, usually sham. <+C><:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><:#480,6864>Cuffs at the wrist were usual. Occasionally cuff and hand ruff were worn together.<+"><-"> > [Embedded] 00012685