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[edoc]
<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360>	THE DOUBLET, still an indispensable garment, was worn over the shirt, or waistcoat if present. It was close-fitting, with a tight waist pointed in front.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360><+">	The point <-">became sharper and deeper as the waistline (known as the girdlestead) steadily curved downwards.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360><+">	Round Waists <-">occurred throughout, but were uncommon until 1590, and then usual from 1590-1610.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#720,6360><+">	The Body <-">was padded (bombasted), and generally stiffened with buckram or canvas, with added pasteboard or busks in front.  Linings of taffeta or other silks covered the coarser materials.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360><+">	Extra padding in front <-">was fashionable from 1575-1590, less so from 1590-1600.

<:R><:#284,6360><:f240,,0,0,0>

<+C><:R1,0,><:#720,6360><+">The Peascod Belly <-">(a Dutch fashion, popular here from 1575 to 1600) was achieved by excessive padding at the point of waist, producing a bulge which overhung the girdle, and in extreme cases curved down to the fork.

<+C><:R1,0,><:#1920,6360>'Their dublettes are noe less monstrous than the reste, for now the fashion is to hang them downe to the middest of their thighs, beeing so hard quilted and staffed, bombasted and sewed, as they can verie hardly either stoupe downe, or decline themselves to
 the ground, soe styffe and sturdy they stand about them certaine I am there was never any kinde of apparell ever invented that could more disproportion the body of man than these dublets with great bellies, hanging down beneath their pudenda, and stuffed w
ith foure, five or six pound of bombast at the least.' Stubbes, <+">Anatomie of abuses.  
<-">1583<+">.<-">

<:R><:#240,6360>

<+C><:R1,0,><:#240,6360><+">The Neck<-">

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,2,1,288,1,432,><:#1680,6360><+">A standing collar <-"><[>1540-1670], with maximum height <[>1560-1570] sometimes reaching the cars. This collar was often. topped with 
<+">pickadils, <-">which were stiffened tabs, joined and turned out at right angles.  The pickadils were partly ornamental and partly useful as a means of support for the smaller ruffs. After 1570 the collar subsided slightly or remained high, behind, curvi
ng away in front to make room for the large ruffs of the 1570's, which were worn with a forward tilt, up behind and down in front.

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><:#480,6360>A narrow band or a plain round neck with a small opening in front <[>1590-1600].

<+C><:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><:#240,6360>

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360><+">Fastenings of Doublet.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360>Fastened from the top of the collar to the waist by

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360>A close row of buttons, loops sometimes replacing buttonholes.  This was the most usual method

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#1200,6360>Hooks and eyes, usually invisible, the garment meeting edge to edge.  Silver hooks and eyes were used by the nobility, a vast quantity being supplied to Queen Elizabeth.  By the end the century ordinary hooks and eyes cost 1s.<+!> 
<-!>a thousand, and this method of fastening was then used by the poorer classes

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360>Lacing

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360>United by points (ties)

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360>

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#960,6360><+">The Skirt was short, <-">and became a mere border, almost hidden bv the girdle, from 1575-1585.  It was also flared so as to stand out overr the bombasted trunk hose, at the same time concealing the joints attaching these hose to the doublet.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360>Variations in the skirt design

@(i) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360>Plain.

@(i) list@<+C><:R1,2,1,432,1,864,><:#720,6360>'Wrought in pickadil', i.e. slit into tabs which were sometimes looped;<+"> 
<-">or there might be a scalloped border (commonest between 1550 and 1570).

@(i) list@<+C><:R1,2,1,432,1,576,><:#720,6360>Made of separate tabs usually overlapping backwards. The two in front either met edge to edge, forming a point, or they occasionally overlapped, if the cut was diagonal <[>1590-1640].

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360><+">

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360><+">The front edges for <-">(i)<+"> and <-">(ii) might be flush, or separated by a /\ shaped gap, or from 1555 to 1580 might overlap owing to the diagonal cut.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360><+">

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360><+">Double Skirts <-"><[>1550-1560] were occasionally worn, the upper being shorter than the lower.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360>

<+C><:R1,1,1,288,><:#240,6360><+">Sleeves <-">(Wings almost invariably present.  See on.)

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,288,><:#480,6360>Close fitting to wrist, where a short vertical opening was fastened with 8-12 buttons. These sleeves were slightly padded <[>1545-1650].

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#960,6360>'Trunk sleeves', wide above and narrowing to a closed buttoned wrist. (Cannon-shaped, or sometimes leg-of-mutton style.) Usually pinked or slashed.<+"> 
<-">Frequently worn with sham hanging sleeves, which came into fashion c 1575 <[>1575-1630].

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360>Full to a closed wrist band (bishop style).  Sometimes without wings <[>1575-1600].

@(a) list@<+C><:R1,1,1,144,>Moderately full above, narrowing to the wrist, but with the front seam buttoned or tied throughout its length, though usually left open in part to expose the full white shirt sleeve <[>1580's-1600].

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,><:#960,6360>	Very full sleeves such as types (b) and (c) might be used as pockets.  'he took half a pound of bacon out of his sleeve, and two hens and a cock which this examinate did suspect he had stolen.' 1594.  Essex County Session Rolls 127/39.

<+C><:I0,180,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#720,6360>Types (b) and (c) were either bombasted, or distended by an undersleeve of fustian or holland, or stiffened with wire, reed or whalebone, and were known as 'farthingale sleeves'.

<:R><:#240,6360>

<+C><:I0,180,0,0><:R1,0,><:#720,6360><+">Detachable Sleeves (c <-">I540's on).  Any of these sleeves might be detachable, being fastened at the armhole by points or buttons, the join hidden under the wings.

<+C><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360>Although doublets had detachable, and therefore interchangeable, sleeves, they were never worn without sleeves in polite society.

<+C><:I0,180,0,0><:R1,0,><:#480,6360><+">'Hand sleeves' <-">was the term used for the wrist portion of a sleeve, and was not a separate item.

<+C><:I0,180,0,0><:R1,0,><:#1200,6360><+">Wings <-"><[>1545-1640] were stiffened welts sewn round the armhole to hide the join of sleeve to body.  They were necessary for detachable sleeves, but were considered ornamental and almost universally used throughout this period.  They were lined with
 buckram or stiffening, but made of the doublet material, often with additional trimming.

<+C><:I0,144,144,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360><+">Variations in design, <-">with dates when popular.

@(a) list@<+C><:I0,60,60,0><:R1,0,><:#240,6360>Plain, narrow and drooping <[>1545-1550].

@(a) list@<+C><:I0,0,0,0><:R1,0,><:#480,6360>A flat welt, broad over shoulder and narrowing to armpit, with scalloped or tabbed border, sometimes double <[>1550-1570].

@(a) list@<+C><:I0,60,0,0><:R1,0,><:#240,6360>A series of flat looped tabs, a double row being usual <[>1565-1590].

@(a) list@<+C><:I0,0,0,0><:R1,0,><:#480,6360>Plain broad projections without divisions. The width dwindled after 1630 <[>1580-1640].

<:R><:#240,6360>

<+C><:I0,0,0,0><:R1,0,><:#960,6360><+">Rolls <-">(serving the same purpose, though not strictly speaking 'wings').  These were made of rolls of stiffened buckram covered with doublet material and slashed into short sections of equal length.  A double row was common <[>1550-1590].

<:R><:#240,6360>

<+C><:I0,0,0,0><:R1,0,><:#960,6360><+">Doublet Materials <-">were often different from the rest of the costume, though of a harmonising colour.  Velvet, taffeta, satin brocade, were the commoner rich material, while fustian, canvas, rash (inferior silk) and leather were cheaper.  Detachable 
sleeves might vary in colour and material from the doublet body.

<:R><:#240,6360>

<+@><:R1,0,><:#240,6360><+">Decoration

@(a) list@<+@><:R1,0,><:#240,6360>Small vertical slashes, symmetrically arranged on body and sleeves.

@(a) list@<+@><:R1,0,><:#240,6360>Pinking.

@(a) list@<+@><:R1,0,><:#240,6360>Embroidery.

<+C><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#965,6360><+">The Girdle or Waistband.  <-">'For a waste band iid.' 1581<+!>. 
<-!>Petre Clothing Accounts.  This was narrow, and shaped to the curving waistline.  It was worn with the doublet, or jerkin when present, but even then might still be retained by the doublet.

<+C><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360><+">Material used.  <-">Leather, often embossed when used with hanger for sword, rapier or dagger.

<+C><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#720,6360><+">For dress wear, <-">gold, silver, velvet or silk were used, the two last being often embroidered in coloured silks, interspersed with pearls, gems or spangles.

<+C><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#480,6360><+">For poor people, caddis <-">(a woven tape) was common.  'Item, ii pyces of grene and yellow caddas for girdles' <[>1552-1553]., Feullerat, 
<+">Revels at Court.<-">

<+C><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#240,6360><+">

<+C><:R1,0,><:#240,6360><+">Attachment of hose to Doublet<-">

<+@><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#1200,6360><+">Concealed Points <-"><[>1560-1595]. The doublet lining at waist level, generally reinforced by a canvas band, was studded with pairs of eyelet holes corresponding to similar pairs at the top of the hose. Through these eyelet holes were threaded the poin
ts which hidden beneath the doublet skirt.  Thus were the breeches secure.

<+@><:I0,144,0,0><:R1,1,1,144,><:#720,6360><+">Visible Points <-">(1595-1630, after which they became mere ornaments sewn on).  These were tied on the outside through holes piercing the doublet body along the waistline, just above the skirt seam.

<:R><:#240,6360><**><:f220,,0,0,0><:f>

>

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