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[edoc]
<:R1,2,1,144,1,288,>FARTHINGALES <[>1545-1620's] were not invariably worn but, once introduced, the Spanish farthingale <[>1545-1600] spread rapidly to all classes.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,>The French farthingale <[>1580-1620] was more exclusive. Farthingales vanished in the 1620's.

<+C><:R1,1,1,144,>(1) <+">The Spanish Farthingale<-">, also called Verdingale. (1545-1600, but less popular after 1590.) It was an undershirt distended by circular hoops made of rushes (called 'bents'), wood, wire, or whalebone.  Each hoop increased in circumference from abo
ve down, reaching a wide circle at the feet.  The arrangement varied slightly, producing a funnel, a dome or a bell-shaped skirt, the funnel being the commonest.  Some farthingales had a single hoop at the hem only.

<:R1,2,1,144,1,288,><+">Materials <-">used were mockado, fustian, buckram, and all kinds of woollen stuff; also expensive materials of silk weave, including velvet.

<:R1,2,1,144,1,288,>'Item pd for hir verdigale of reed (red) mockeadoo 12s.' Petrie Archives.  E.R.O.D/DP.  A9A.

<+C><:R1,1,1,432,><:f220,,><+">What pride can the pore verdynalles increased in women kynde,<-">

<:R1,1,1,432,><+"><:f220,,>The stuf that goeth to the same is easy for to fynde,<-">

<+C><:R1,1,1,432,><+"><:f220,,>Is fustian, or buckram, lystes and eke red cloth.<-"><:f>

<+A><:R1,1,1,2736,>Utterson's <+">Early Popular Poetry.<-">

<:R1,1,1,288,>Farthingales were also lined.

<:R1,1,1,288,><+"><-">'Item for the lynyng and mendyng of 2 vardgales</W>14d.' 1555. Petre Archives.  E.R.O. D/DP.  AgA.

<+@><:R1,1,1,144,><+"><+"><-"><+"><-"><+">The Spanish Farthingale Skirt.  <-">This skirt was gored so as to slope stiffly outwards from waist to ground, presenting a smooth flat surface without folds.  When present these were evenly arranged, avoiding any drapery effects.  T
his was known as a 'round kirtle', as<:f240,,0,0,0> opposed to the trained kirtle.<:f>

<+@><:R1,1,1,288,><+"><+">Trains <-">were rare, and only used at

<+@><:R1,2,1,432,1,1008,>(i) Court functions.

<+@><:R1,2,1,432,1,1008,>(ii) Weddings or Funerals.

<+@><:R1,2,1,432,1,1152,>(iii) Ceremonial occasions.

<+@><:R1,1,1,288,>Kirtles were always lined.

<+@><:R1,1,1,144,>'For 6 yardes white satten for a <+">trayne Kirtle <-">at 10s. 8d. the yarde....

<+@><:R1,2,1,288,1,6192,>'For 1<:f240,2Times New Roman,></~><:f> ell (ell</W>1<:f240,2Times New Roman,></|><:f> yds.) of white taffetay sarcenet to lyne the trayne of the white satten kirtle at 8s. the ell.  For 3 ells of blacke Englishe worsted, and 3<:f240,2Times New Roman,></|><:f>
 for a <+">rounde Kirtle <-">and a cassocke at <+!><-!>13 s. the ell.... For 3 yardes redd cotton to lyne a 
<+"><-">crymsyn satten kirde at 12d. the yarde ... 3s.' 1559.  Petre 
<+"><-">Family Accounts. Money disbursed in preparation for a wedding.  E.R.O. D/DP A9D.

<:R1,1,1,6336,><+"><-">'One reed (red) Sathan damaske kirtle wh a traine XXs.' <+"><-"><+!><+!><+"><-!><-">1568<+">.  
<-">Will of Katherine Lady Hedworth.                                      
<-!>

<:R1,1,1,288,><+"><-"><+!><-!>A /\<+!> <-!>shaped opening in front was common, the space being filled in by an elegant under-petticoat, or by a 
<+">forepart.<-">

<:R1,1,1,288,><+"><-"><+"><-"><+">A Forepart, <-">made of rich material, was a kind of apron, sometimes mounted on a common under-petticoat otherwise concealed.  The forepart was lavishly decorated, embroidered, pinked, furred, or trimmed with lace, spangles or oes.  It 
contrasted with the skirt, but often matched the sleeves.

<:R1,1,1,288,>(2)<+!><+"> <-!><-">The French Farthingale <[>1580-1620's], mentioned in Queen Elizabeth's Accounts as early as 1561, the 'Wheel' farthingale being worn at Court in the 1560's.  But this was a limited exclusive fashion.

<+@><:R1,1,1,144,>There were two main styles, both producing a tub-shaped hang to the skirt.

<:R1,2,1,288,1,6336,><+"><+"><-"><+"><+">(a)<+"> The Roll Farthingale, <-">popularly known as the 'Bum Roll', was a padded roll, variously covered with cotton or other bombast, and sometimes wired.<-"><-">

<:R1,2,1,288,1,6336,><:#568,6360><+"><-">'One roole covered with Karnacion rybben.  One Roole covered with whight tape.' 1589.  E.R.O. D/DBa.

<:R1,2,1,288,1,6336,><:#852,6360>It resembled a life-belt with a break in front where it was tied by tapes. it was worn round the hips with a slight tilt up behind and down in front.

<:R1,1,1,144,><:#568,6360><+"><-">'A boulster for their Buttockes.' 1600.  Samuel Rowlands, 
<+">Satyre VII.

<:R1,1,1,144,><+"><-"><+"><-"><+">The Demi- or Semi-circled Farthingale <-"><[>1580-1620], was a variation, made as a half roll, somewhat resembling a large bustle, and leaving a straight front.

<+@><:R1,2,1,288,1,6192,><:#568,6360>Roll farthingales, by the end of the century were becoming plebeian.

<+@><:R1,2,1,288,1,6192,><:#852,6360>'Nor you nor your house were so much as spoken of before I debased myself from my hood and my farthingale, to those bum rolls. . . .' 1601. Ben Jonson, 
<+">The Poetaster.<-">

<+@><:R1,1,1,6336,><+">(b) The Wheel Farthingale <-"><[>1580-1620's].  Also called the 'Catherine wheel Farthingale', and by some the 'Italian Farthingale'.  This was a wheel-shaped structure made of wire or whalebone, covered with material such as silk or damask. 
<+!><-!>It was worn round the waist with a slight tilt forward, up behind and down in front.  This tilt was enormously increased at the turn of the century.

<+@><:R1,1,1,144,><:#568,6360>The skirt was carried out at right angles to a width varying from eight to forty-eight inches before falling vertically to the feet.

<+@><:R1,0,><:#1136,6360> 'For making sixe Varthingalls of tafeta w<+&>th<-&> wyer and silke to them.  For making six Varthingalls of damaske with wyer and silke to them.' 1612-1613.  Warrant to the Great Wardrobe on the Princess Elizabeth's Marriage.

<+@><:R1,0,><:#284,6360>

<+B><:R1,0,><:#284,6360><+">Alas poore verdingales must lie in the street,<-">

<+B><:R1,0,><:#284,6360><+">To house them no dore in the citie made meet,<-">

<+B><:R1,1,1,144,><:#284,6360><+">Since at our. narrow doores they in cannot win.<-">

<+@><:R1,1,1,4752,><:#284,6360>1599.  Heywood<+">, Micro-Cynicon</W>Sixe Snarling Satyres.<-">

<+@><:R1,1,1,4752,><+">

<:R1,2,1,288,1,432,><:f120,,,,><:f><+">(c) The Scotch Farthingale <-">(unidentified) was in all probability a small edition of the roll or wheel.

<:R1,2,1,288,1,432,><:#852,6360>'Enter Poldavy, a French tailor, with a Scottish fartbingale ... "Tailor Poldavy, prithee fit, fit it. Is this a right Scot?  Does it clip close and bear up round?"' 1605.  
<+">Eastward<-"> <+">Hoe.<-">

<:R1,1,1,144,><:#852,6360><+">Method of Tilting the Farthingale <-">(down in front and up at the back).  A cushion, known as a 
<+">'Cushionet' <-">was probably worn as a bustle to push up the structure behind.

<:R1,1,1,144,><:#568,6360>'A varinngale and quissionet of fustion in Apres, iis.' 1566.  Will of Wm. Claxton of Burnehall.

<:R1,1,1,144,><:#2272,6360><+">The French Farthingale Skirt.  <-">The skirt was gathered and made full enough to be carried out horizontally over the farthingale, and then to fall vertically to the feet, producing a tub-shaped outline.  Modified, the skirt was worn over the semi-circ
led farthingale, or with the exaggerated tilt, towards 1600  A /\ shaped opening in front, occasionally a mere slit, would reveal a forepart or underskirt, but this was far less common than with the Spanish farthingale style.

<:R1,1,1,288,><:#284,6360><+">Trains, <-">when worn, were rare with this type of skirt.

<:R1,1,1,144,><:#1136,6360><+">The frounced skirt <-"><[>1590-1630].  To avoid the hard line made by the wheel farthingale, the skirt was given a circular frill of its own material.  This resembled an immense ruff worn round the waist, the sets radiating horizontally to the edge of t
he farthingale.

<:R1,1,1,144,><:#284,6360>These flounces varied slightly in design.

<:R><:#284,6360><:f240,,,,>

<:#284,6360>

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